Black Horse Finance

There are lots of different sizes and layouts to think about, and let’s not forget one of the most important things that many first-time buyers overlook – matching the caravan to the vehicle you’ll be towing it with.  

We’ll give you some handy tips on things to check inside and outside before you agree to a deal. It’s a big investment and the last thing you want is to be disappointed before you’ve even spent a night in your caravan.  

Layout – why it matters

You’ll hopefully be spending many pleasant holidays in your new caravan, so it’s important to take layout into account. There are many options for beds, storage, bathrooms and lounge areas, and making the right choice will add to your comfort and convenience. 

Berth - This refers to how many people the manufacturer suggests can comfortably use the caravan. Use it as a guide, but go for the caravan that has ample space for your needs.
Twin sofas - This is the traditional layout with a tabletop between them, and a pull-out roll of bed slats stored below – so it’s a lounge until one of you wants to go to bed.
L-shaped lounge - The L-shape lounge is good for having a TV in the corner and sitting four people comfortably.
U-shaped lounge - This is common in continental caravans, in which the lounge is often at the rear. Oddly, rear lounge layouts are harder to sell in the UK, so if you are happy with this arrangement, you can usually get one for less than a front lounge equivalent.
Rear fixed bed - Sometimes referred to as an ‘en suite’ layout, the only disadvantage is being woken up if other occupants need to use the toilet, but it’s ideal for couples. It also means you can leave the bed made up permanently – and there’s extra storage space under it.
Fixed singles or bunks - Fixed single beds, with or without bunks above them, mean you can walk up and down the middle of the caravan, and beds are fixed so there’s less to do at bedtime.
Central washroom - This layout creates separate lounge and sleeping areas at each end of the caravan.
End washroom - End washrooms are very popular, taking up the whole width of the caravan at the rear. You’ll often find wardrobes are included, giving you a dressing area too.
Front dinette - Unless it’s an ‘end-lounge’ model, most caravans have a front dinette – a u-shaped or l-shaped set of sofas and a table under the front window, which convert into a double bed.
End kitchen - The end kitchen is often criticised as it puts heavy objects like the cooker and fridge at the very back of the caravan, which can upset towing stability. However, manufacturers now take more care to balance the weight, so it’s less of an issue. At the back of the caravan, the kitchen doesn’t restrict the gangway, so it’s a popular choice for some.

Checks inside and out

It might look impressive on the outside, but be unsuitable for you on the inside – and redecorating caravans isn’t easy. Likewise, it might seem nicely laid out and comfy on the inside, yet have hidden problems on the outside. So make sure you remember to check the following before you part with any money:  

Interior checks

• Walk the length of the caravan and look into all the nooks and crannies to make sure you pick up any faults. Water marks on the carpet under roof lights and windows, for example, are a tell-tale sign of leaking seals. If buying from a dealer, the plumbing and gas fittings will have been thoroughly checked. But when buying privately, make sure you see proof they’ve been checked recently by an approved fitter.
• Most good dealers will have already carried out a damp check on any used stock so it’s worth asking them for the results before you buy.

Exterior checks

• Check aluminium panels by standing close to them and looking along the side – it’s easier to spot any dents and scrapes this way.
• Beware of pinprick holes or bubbles in aluminium panels. The solvents in some glues, which rot the aluminium from the inside, can cause these.
• Check the stabiliser friction pads are in good order, as replacements can cost around £60 or more.
• Inspect the seals and the plastic trim, especially on older models. The seals can be replaced easily enough, but may have let in water.
• Check window seals aren’t perished.
• Tyres can deteriorate quickly if the caravan is left standing in one position for long periods. They should be changed at least every four years, even if the tread has had little wear, so it pays to ask. If in any doubt, change them anyway.
• If a caravan mover is fitted, make sure it’s in good working order and that spare parts are easy to get hold of and replace.
• Look out for shoddy repairs or quick fixes – this could be a sign of poor maintenance, and other problems lurking elsewhere.
• Don't forget the roof. Oddly, buyers tend to overlook this very important feature! Check the seals around roof lights, and any impact damage from branches, walls or bridges.
• Make sure any finance on the original purchase has been paid off. If not, the caravan could still be the property of a finance house, and not the seller.

Matching your caravan and towing car

Unless you’re looking for a static caravan, you will have to bear in mind that the caravan you buy is suitable to be towed by your vehicle.

It’s very important to make sure that the Maximum Technically Permissable Laden Mass (MTPLM) of your caravan is no more than 85% of the ‘kerbweight’ of your towing car (the weight of your car in road-ready condition including driver, passengers and luggage). If in doubt, consult your dealer for guidance.  

For example, a typical family car, say a 1.6 litre hatchback, should tow no more than about 1,250kg. The heavier caravans, over 1,600kg, will require a much more powerful car, a van or even a big 4x4.  

Key areas to check

Here are some vital checks to make:         

External lights

Check them before you set off for the first time. Test your indicators, brakes, hazard and sidelights, too, with someone checking your caravan's rear lights function in tandem with your car.    

Mains input socket

On arrival, hook-up to the electricity and check you're plugged in correctly. Some hook-ups need to be twisted into position, so make sure the cable is properly connected.

Then test all the mains equipment. If there doesn't seem to be any power, first check that you haven't tripped the switch on the hook-up bollard, or on the site fuse box.

Ask a warden for help if you're unsure. Or try another hook-up bollard to see if that’s the problem, and not your caravan’s electrics.

Ensure the master power switch is on ‘230V' or 'mains', rather than ‘battery' or ‘12V'. Find the main RCD cut-out switch, usually in a locker near the exterior mains socket.  

Often it’s something as simple as a tripped switch, but if you really can't get the electrics to work, take it back to the dealer and ask for help.   

Refrigerator

Set the dial to the 12V ‘electric' setting before you set off, and your fridge will start to cool as you drive. Make sure you set the fridge to run on gas or mains electricity when you arrive at the park.  

Adjust the fridge to its coldest setting so that any drop in temperature is easy to detect, but allow half an hour or more before checking.  

Hob/oven/grill

Make sure the gas bottle straps are tight and the yellow tap is turned to the ‘open' position. Inside, you'll find a separate cut-off valve for each appliance, so switch all of these to ‘open’, too. Try each burner and the oven and grill. They should burn with a clean blue flame – if the flame is yellow, turn it off and have the gas supply checked.  

Space heater

Turn the thermostat right up and press the ignition button for five seconds. You should see the flame through the small inspection hole on the front of the heater. If it doesn't light, check that the gas cylinder valve and the stopcock (under the kitchen sink) are fully open, and try again.

The heater takes longer to warm up on mains electricity. Switch it to full power for 15 minutes to make sure it’s working.  

CD/radio

Check all the speakers are working and that the radio signal is clear. If the radio shares the aerial with a TV, ensure the booster is switched on for best results.  

Cassette toilet

Ensure the exterior door opens and shuts easily, and that the cassette doesn't stick. Make sure you add the correct amounts of water and chemicals, as per your handbook.  

Wheelnut torque and tyre pressure 

Check the wheelnut torque settings and tyre pressures specified in the handbook. Look out for damage to the wheel rim or tyre walls, and if locking wheelnuts are fitted, make sure you have the key to undo them!  

What about warranty?

All new caravans come with a warranty. Parts and servicing warranties usually last two or three years after purchase, but vary depending on the manufacturer. If you meet the manufacturer’s servicing requirements and use your caravan appropriately, then any maintenance or repair work within this time should be covered. If your test-run doesn't highlight any concerns, and problems crop up later, let the dealer know straight away.  

If you’re buying used from a dealership, there may be a warranty, and at very least a reputable dealer will happily help you sort out any teething problems. One of the drawbacks of private sales is you’re more or less ‘on your own’, so take great care over your pre-purchase checks.